Cozumel

Getting there

Cozumel is an island off Playa del Carmen, and the passenger ferry is how almost everyone arrives.

Two companies run the route, Ultramar and Winjet, with departures roughly every thirty to sixty minutes. First crossings around 6:00–7:00, last returns between 21:00 and 23:00 depending on operator and season.

The diving

This is the reason most people come. Cozumel sits on the Mesoamerican Reef, the second largest barrier reef in the world, and the drift diving here is among the best anywhere.

• Palancar — the signature site. Coral formations, swim-throughs, exceptional visibility.
• Colombia — deeper, big coral towers, for more experienced divers.
• El Cielo — shallow, sandy, full of starfish. Snorkelling rather than diving, and popular with families.

Visibility is generally excellent year round. The current does the work — most dives here are drift dives, which is easy but takes a moment to get used to.

Beyond the water

• San Miguel, the main town, has a waterfront promenade and the ferry terminal. Most restaurants and shops are within a few blocks.
• The east coast is wild and largely undeveloped, with open ocean and rough water. Rent a car or scooter to see it.
• San Gervasio is the Mayan site on the island, dedicated to Ixchel.
• Cruise ships dock here in numbers. On a heavy day the town is very busy; checking the cruise schedule before choosing your day is worth two minutes.